Bariloche

Twenty-eight hours on a bus is not an idea that would excite many people, but I’m here to tell you to give it a chance. Yes, sitting in the same seat for that long is a bit of a slog, but travelling from El Chalten to Bariloche, watching the scenery slowly change from dry arid, icy mountains to lush green mountains and lakes was joyful. Chatting to Gabriela and Charlie, an Australian couple I met on the bus, we also realised that with the big comfy seats you get and the ability to bring on whatever food and drink you like, if you instead pretend you’re on a 28 hour business class flight, the whole experience is really improved. More than 20 hours in I was still willing the journey not to end, I was just enjoying looking out of the window. I then realised there were still 4 hours left and decided that actually I’d be ok if it ended in 4 hours. Still, my favourite bus journey to date, with much time spent enraptured by what was out of the window.

I arrived at the hostel I’d booked and immediately met Sophie, a chatty Yorkshire lass and a few others. Within an hour we’d planned to spend the next day together and headed out for dinner. Parilla de Tony had been recommended to us - a local steakhouse where we could get better value than in the touristy centre. This was the steak I’d been waiting for since I got to Argentina.  It was so soft we literally cut it with a teaspoon to prove a point. Delicious red wine and some beers in a local microbrewery later it was suddenly 2am and we decided we should probably get back if we wanted to see some nature the next day.

Ciruito Chico is one of Bariloche’s key attractions and one of the best ways to see it in a short time is to cycle. 25km from Bariloche you can rent bikes and cycle the circuit. It’s a day of stunning views of lakes and mountains, as well as the brewery for Patagonia beer, which I’d been enjoying since arriving in Argentina. Sophie when reserving the bikes had asked for e-bikes. My initial reaction was that e-bikes were cheating, however after passing several struggling cyclists on the first long and steep climb in the hot sun I was very grateful for Sophie’s wisdom. The views were as magnificent as promised and we stopped for a little over an hour at a secluded beach on the other side of the circuit. Sadly we weren’t the only ones who had heard about the secluded beach, however it was full of locals rather than tourists and that took nothing away from the backdrop of snow-capped mountains. I carefully waded in to clear waters, which were particularly cold - unsurprising considering the lake is filled by mountain ice slowly melting. I eventually summoned up the courage for a chilly swim, but was mostly taking in the majesty of the surroundings. On our way back, we stopped for an orange juice at a little kiosk with a pretty view, loudly playing Argentinian rock and roll. I’d asked the owner who was playing, and while we were sitting, she came over with a handwritten list of Argentinian artists I have to listen to.

Still with a little energy left after returning our bikes, we decided to head up Campanário, a big hill nearby with apparently good views from the top. There’s a chairlift that runs up and down, but that had closed before we got there, so we started to climb. It was steeper than I expected, but not too long a climb so we summoned our remaining energy and made it up. The views at the top were incredible. 360 degrees of forests, lakes and mountains with ice caps. We hitchhiked part of the way home and were kindly invited for pizza with our driver’s family, but sadly had to decline as after hours of cycling, swimming, hill climbing and falling a couple of times as the dust shifted on the way down I was in no fit state to enter someone else’s home.

The next day was New Years Eve, and our hostel was having a party in the evening. They asked everyone to contribute some food. I decided to represent Great Britain and made shortbread before heading out to Playa Bonita, a stoney beach close to Bariloche where Charlie and Gabriela had said they were heading. We chatted for a while, and after a little paddle (far to cold to swim this time) and a little sit I headed back to rest before the party.

The party was great fun. There was a huge selection of food, mystery punch (which I’m still not sure if it contained alcohol or not), and lots of fun conversation. My shortbread went down a storm (despite having come out a little too crunchy, I guess no-one knew what they were supposed to taste like) and were still being eaten and talked about 2 days later! After counting down to midnight and dancing badly to reggaeton we were asked to leave the hostel as some people were trying to sleep. We walked out to look for one last drink and see what Bariloche looked like on New Years Eve. What we found was a reggaeton club - the only place open and full only of locals. We danced, had a couple of drinks and Gabriela and Charlie came to join us. We chatted to some Argentinians while sitting outside the club (see daylight photo post-club!) and I eventually made it back to the hostel at 6.30am. I did debate staying up another 30 mins to have breakfast before sleeping, but decided against it and fell asleep as soon as I lay down.

Not everyone had made it to sleep so late and the general commotion of people waking up and packing to check out woke me up around 10am. I decided to catch the end of breakfast and was glad I did as I was welcomed by hugs from many new friends made at the party. Breakfast on the balcony looking at the mountain view (one that a 5 star hotel would rave about) and a lovely chat with some more people met last night turned in to being invited for a New Year’s hike. In a spur of the moment decision I said yes and quickly showered and grabbed my hiking boots. 

I felt pretty good considering I was running on 3 hours of sleep, and was glad I’d dragged myself out as the river we walked along was beautiful, and a little New Years Day paddle made me feeling I was making the most of my time there. My Spanish was a little slow (as was my head in general), but I managed to have some solid conversations with the group of Argentinians and Peruvians I was walking with. We made it to the top of the trail we were following, where there were panoramic views across a ravine, with again snow capped mountains, lush greenery and a powerful river in one view. I got a little emotional while sitting looking out as I realised how much I’d enjoyed the breathtaking scenery of Bariloche, and that this would be the last of its kind before leaving the next day. On the walk back I was a little sad thinking of leaving, but allowed myself to take in as much as possible and really felt the power of the river as we walked past. I feel really at home in nature these days.

This was a particularly sociable hostel and there are so many people I haven’t had space to mention but will be very sad to leave. I had big goodbye hugs with the hostel staff, the Argentinian/Peruvian group I’d been out walking with and Renske, a dutch girl who I hadn’t done anything with, but who I’d spoken to several times each day in the hostel. I hope our paths cross again someday in the future.

It was time to move on. I was asked by someone in the hostel if I’m ready to leave. I think they were referring to my belongings, but as I told them, my bag may have been ready but I wasn’t. Patagonia has had a far greater effect on me than I expected it too. I’m sad to go, but happy to take some special memories with me.