Arugam Bay

I was very grateful to be with Chloe and Claudia on the way to Arugam Bay. Mainly because the two bus, two tuk-tuk journey would have been a lot more difficult alone (although it didn’t prevent local men from falling asleep on me), but also because now comfortable with each other, we’d booked a private room. A private room with three beds doesn’t sound significantly different to a dorm, but it really felt different, knowing the space was ours, that we could decide on the air-conditioning temperature, when the lights go on and off, and that there would be no unexpected late night arrivals waking us up. Perhaps it speaks to how used to hostels I’ve become that sharing a room with only two people, and ones that I already know, felt like genuinely luxury.

Arugam Bay instantly gave me a good feeling. There were rows of inviting restaurants and cafes that I was excited to try, and a feeling of happiness around the town. This is a place known for surfing, and you can feel the relaxed surf culture as you walk around. Similarly to Trincomalee, my main agenda here was some solid beach time. After now 7 months (what?!) of staying only 2-4 nights in most places before moving on, I decided a full week of lying on the sand would help a little with the long term exhaustion I’ve been feeling for some time. I spent days on end sunbathing (well, lying in the shade mostly, it’s SO hot) and cooling off while being tossed about by a choppy sea. I got through a lot of the book I’m reading (The Time Traveller’s Wife, highly recommend), ate smoothie bowls, planned my next steps, and sometimes just closed my eyes and felt the breeze.

There were a couple of beach parties which were enjoyable, but to be honest didn’t quite live up to the hype. A real highlight though was the fresh fish. Many restaurants in town have huge selections of fish on ice outside, and allow you to choose your fish to be barbecued by their chefs. There were some particularly huge fish, including a barracuda which I (slightly guiltily) recognised from scuba diving. On separate nights Chloe and I shared a whole white snapper and half a small tuna. Fresh, smoky and delicious.

Chloe, Claudia and I had a joint surf lesson one morning. I improved from my previous performance in Vietnam, successfully catching most waves and often standing all the way in to shore. I think this was partly the extra practice, but also party that the waves rolled along the beach instead of towards it, so instead of burning energy fighting the waves paddling back out to sea, I got there with enough energy to focus on my technique on the board. It was fun, but similarly to in Vietnam I felt that surfing doesn’t quite my personality in the way that (I’ve since realised) snowboarding does. The sitting around and waiting for the perfect wave, only for it to be taken by someone else is for a certain kind of person. My energy is more like a puppy - sitting excitedly on a chairlift ready to tackle a slope, and enjoying making my way down, then getting to the bottom and excitedly wanting to immediately go again. Nevertheless, I was glad I gave it another try, and that I engaged in the surf culture that permeates the town.

Some proper rest and some proper beach time. Exactly what I was hoping for. I left Arugam Bay a little sad knowing it was the last beach I’d see before returning home. With my travel now winding down there will be many lasts coming up, but it’s comforting to know that each last also brings me closer to everything I’ve missed at home.