Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

I was excited to be crossing in to Vietnam, having heard excellent things from so many other backpackers I’d met so far. Many people spoken of it as their favourite country so far, and once over the border from Cambodia I began to feel it. There’s an energy here somehow. It feels light and full of colour, exciting and buzzy. I was also enjoying having a consistent travel buddy for the first time since I’d started my trip. After meeting in Bangkok, Carla and I had now seen Koh Rong and Phnom Penh together, and had grown to be close friends and comfortable in each other’s company - depth that’s harder to find in all the quicker friendships travel often brings.

We arrived late in Saigon (also called Ho Chi Minh City officially, but the general understanding seems to be that Saigon is used informally, and by those born in southern Vietnam and unhappy to have their city’s name changed by those in the north) and were worried it might be too late to find food. Luckily, there is a huge street food culture here, with many street restaurants setting up plastic chairs and tables around 10-11pm in front of shops that have just closed. We stumbled upon one that looked good - full of loud and happy Vietnamese people - and after typing the number seven million in to an ATM for the first time ever, ordered some delicious noodles.

In Saigon, I particularly enjoyed exploring the Cafe Apartments - floors of cafes with balconies and cute boutiquey shops in what used to be an apartment block building - and 14 Ton That Dam - very similar, but full of cocktail bars. The old post office is a really beautiful building, and the War Remnants Museum (previously called the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes) was moving and at times harrowing, but told a story well. There was of course plenty more good food, including several banh mis and a walk down a narrow and seemingly endless food street, but perhaps the most fun was the afternoon Carla and I attempted to buy a few necessities. They were surprisingly hard to find, but the walking involved meant we passed through the city without the expectation of seeing anything in particular. In the end we only found 2 of 5 things on our lists, but I’d really enjoyed the wander.

I look forward to finding out how the rest of Vietnam feels, but so far I absolutely love it. I can see what all the fuss is about.