Kandy

It seems the main reason people visit Kandy is not for the city itself, but instead of the famously scenic train ride between here and Ella, my previous destination. I was no different, and Maike and I (having now bumped in to each other in several hostels), on the advice of our hostel owner, headed to the stop before Ella in order to ensure we got a seat for the long train ride. Unfortunately it was the day before the final parade of Perahera festival in Kandy, and as such the train was so busy that even a stop early a seat wasn’t close to possible! The train was packed, but we were lucky in that we ended up next to the door, and so could take turns sitting with our legs dangling out of the open door - and occasionally whipping them back inside when passing narrow spaces. It really felt like we had the best seat on the train, and the best view. As the wind rushed past my face and cooled me, I sat and took in the landscape unobstructed.

The city was buzzing with life for Perahera, people sitting in the streets hours before the parade started to save good spots, roads closed and temporary food stalls set up everywhere they would fit. The parade itself was due to start at 6:52 precisely - a level of accuracy that felt a little pointless given everyone seemed to know it would start around two hours late. The parade was long and slow, with whip crackers, dancers, drummers, pipers and elephants (sadly being ridden) being led around the route through the city, but naturally moving slowly. With the main roads closed, it was actually very difficult to navigate the city, as in some sections of the city there simply aren’t any other roads to use. After hearing about friends getting stuck for 6 or more hours on the parade route, we decided to view it from afar and have the possibility of leaving. We enjoyed the atmosphere and perhaps the best (and cheapest) kothu I’ve eaten, but hit pretty extreme human traffic in trying to get close to the parade. 

The day after, Maike and I went for a walk around the lake - very pretty with views of the famous temple of the tooth relic - and accidentally stumbled upon an excellent viewing spot for the final parade, which would take place that day (they’ve been going on for a month now). From this spot we had an excellent view of the different forms of music and dance that made up the parade, as well as a clear view of what everyone was here to see: the tooth relic. Supposedly this is one of the buddha’s teeth, and it’s kept in a temple in Kandy, and once a year paraded around the city. The tooth itself wasn’t actually visible, it’s kept in an ornate case, but everyone seemed very excited nonetheless. After Kandy’s noise and the festival’s chaos, I was very grateful I’d had the foresight to book a quiet, peaceful hostel to return to.

With the end of my time in Kandy comes the end of my time in Sri Lanka. It’s a lovely country, with so much to offer, but I think in my mind it suffered (unfairly) from being at the end of a long trip, at a time when I was tired from long term travel and my thoughts were already turning to what life looks like when I return home. I’ve loved the food (one of the reasons I chose to come to Sri Lanka in the first place) and I’ve really enjoyed some relaxing beach time, some hikes, a stunning train ride and the little community of friends I kept bumping in to. At the same time I found the heat, the chaos, and the lack of personal space in public areas a little overwhelming. Were this to be the first country I’d visited I imagine I’d be enjoying the challenge the cultural differences presented, but now with 8 countries behind me over almost 8 months, I find myself longing for comfort over adventure. Perhaps it’s time to head home.