Phong Nha
Phong Nha is an area of Vietnam most known for its huge limestone caves, including the world’s biggest cave, and others that extend for tens of kilometers. Entrance to each cave was quite expensive though, particularly for Vietnam - the world’s biggest cave can only be visited on a multi-day tour costing around two-thousand US dollars. Luckily, what can be accessed for free around here are the stunning limestone mountains, jutting up almost vertically from the earth. They’re everywhere, right next to roads and in rows in the distance, and it’s beautifully dramatic to look at. My path had once again crossed with Carla’s so we rented a scooter and headed out for a drive around a big loop of good quality roads I’d found recommended online. There were a few places to stop en route, checking out the entrances to the caves without paying to go in, and an oddly deserted activity park, but the real attraction here was some of the most beautiful roads I’ve ever driven, with the wind in our hair and almost no-one else in sight. If felt good to be free and stop whenever we wanted, and go at our own pace without the stress of anyone behind or in front of us. I found my jaw often open in wonder at what I was seeing.
On our second day, we decided we needed to see at least one cave while in the area, and opted for Phong Nha cave, a completely flooded cave accessible only by a boat trip. It was only a short ride according to Google Maps, so we expected to be there soon, but we had no idea what an adventure it would turn in to. Upon encountering a closed gate, we were told by a Romanian family looking for the same things as us that we needed to be on the other side of the river to get the boat. We could see boats there, so it made sense. It was a long ride back to the next bridge over the river, but luckily there was a lady with a small boat offering a shuttle service over the river. We and the family (and 3 girls who had sinc joined us) loaded our scooters on to the boat, taking a couple of trips, and with relatively few mishaps made it to the other side. We were then told that we needed to be much further down this side of the river, but the only way to get there was to do a big loops around some local roads. We set off in bike convoy, and proceeded to ride around some beautiful small roads, lined with trees, small villages and opening up to incredible mountain views. Around half an hour later, we arrived at the spot where the boats were meant to be, only to be told we needed to be - you’ve guessed it - on the other side of the river, in town, right next to where we had started. I have no idea how the various miscommunications led us around in quite such a huge loop, but I’m grateful they did. I’m not here just to sight see, I’m here for an adventure, and I got one.
By the time we boarded the boat to the cave (amazingly with the Romanian family and the girls we’d met earlier, who had all found their own way there, different routes but arriving at more or less the same time) I was pretty delirious. The cave itself was very impressive, but remains overshadowed in my mind by the unexpected route there. We finished the day with a trip to duck stop, a very silly place where a big group of friendly ducks eat from your hand and tickle your feet. A fun and slightly mad end to a fun and slightly mad day. I came to Phong Nha for the caves, but I leave remembering it for the freedom of a scooter on a quiet road through breathtaking scenery